James Nicholson is global art director of hair at Kevin.Murphy, and recently presented a new launch for Kevin.Murphy streaming live to journalists in Europe from the brand’s Danish academy alongside Session.Master Massimo Morello. The pair are genius with a blow-dry so it was apt they give us first sight of two new additions to the Kevin.Murphy Blow.Dry collection – namely the Wash & Rinse regime.
Massimo Morello (left) with James Nicholson at the Kevin.Murphy Wash & Rinse launch
This was too good a chance to miss so we jumped on a call after the broadcast, to grab a masterclass in blow-drying from an expert. James obliged by delivering a good insight which might inspire your conversations with clients.
How to achieve the perfect blow-dry: 1
Tribu-te: James, you showed the products on long hair models. Do you use things in a different way on longer hair than shorter?
James: “The quick answer is that the products work on all hair types and lengths! But yes, we show on longer hair because it has more distinct root/new growth, mid-length and end areas. This allows us to talk about strategically applying the product.
“The launch we’ve presented is for Blow.Dry Wash and Blow.Dry Rinse, and they work well with the family of Evers, which are blow-dry extenders with result. For example, using Ever.Thicken, we don’t apply near the roots – we’re not trying to make the hair voluminous (in which case we’d use Ever.Lift), but for grunge, authentic thickness we apply to mid-lengths and ends. We use longer hair models in order to be able to explain the zones.
How to achieve the perfect blow-dry: 2
Tribu-te: “Is there one piece of advice you find yourself giving over and over regarding blow-dries? Something a non-hairdresser might not get right?
James: “In order to explain how hair blow-dries, you need to know there’s wet to dry and then there’s hot to cold. You have an opportunity while hair has any moisture content, to rebuild the bonds that only get broken down by being wet. We know as hairdressers that this is the opportunity to make a blow-dry long-lasting, with help and support from products.”
“And then once the hair is completely dry, the only way you’re going to remould hair is by making it hot and by how you handle it, while it cools down.
“It’s helping people understand those two steps and making the most of them, that they can understand what’s happening to the hair. Explain, there’s no point in blasting hair from wet to dry if you’re going to run straightening irons over it. Do some work to smooth the hair while you’re drying it, so you do less work with the really hot tool.”
How to achieve the perfect blow-dry: 3
Tribu-te: Generally should we be steering people to do less blow-drying and heat-styling for sustainability, and to protect the health of the hair?
James: “The fact that Kevin has developed blow-dry extenders says it all! On both points the thing is to do it better, and less often. A bit like Vivienne Westwood with her advice to ‘buy less and wear it longer’. The same time, if you are looking at care as a primary need, repairing damage for example, then you do need to be using masks and therapy on the hair so making it wet, but for blow-drying do it less often, but better.
Tribu-te: What is your posse of perfect products for blow-drying?
James: “Obviously, I’d have the right shampoo and conditioner or mask. I would then hand-pick from the Evers… something for the hair type. I like the idea that when I’ve put a good blow-dry in, I can help extend it. So I’d say a dry shampoo and a dry conditioner are great choice.”
Thanks James… great advice and well put to share with clients
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