You might be shocked to discover that in the UK still there are pay disparities favouring white-skinned models. And still there are fewer leadership roles held by women of colour, while 70% of beauty products are for primarily lighter skin tones. The of unfairness list goes on. These and more are indicators we still have much to achieve in hair and beauty to address tokenism, discrimination and colourism. We are used to debates about the use of the term ‘textured’ to describe Afro/Carribbean black hair types, and continue to see many women of colour anxious about embracing their natural style. But the conversation on creating a more inclusive hair and beauty industry must continue and must effect change. Which brought Tribu-te Magazine recently to attend the newly launched Sabirah Talks.
The Sabirah fashion brand was founded by designer Deborah Latouche who is seeking to elevate and empower all women regardless of size, religion and race. In an exciting initiative, Deborah has instigated a series of occasional Sabirah Talks, Her desire is to encourage much needed conversations, centred on diversity, inclusion and empowerment of women. Tribu-te went along to the inaugural Sabirah Talks panel, which focused on Women of Colour in the Fashion and Beauty Industry.
Deborah Latouche introduces SABIRAH Talks
Conversation starter
Joining the panel for the Sabirah Talks in early July were eminent academics, creative director and business owners. The panel included Nick Irwin, global ambassador for Schwarzkopf Professional (sponsors for the event) and hair editor for Hunger Magazine.
Nick was there as a hair professional to contribute his experience of working with Deborah on the Sabirah shows, and with Kim Howells at Hunger Magazine. It’s my role, says Nick, to endorse and understand how we can put the spotlight and the funding into the right areas. “My biggest thing when I do shows, isn’t that I have my name on it, but that it’s not tokenistic. I must nail the cultural appropriation and help honour the things the Sabirah brand is trying to do. I’m here tonight is to talk about Nuria – my right hand at the shows – and really because I’m still a student. I’ve been doing hair for 40 years. I’m still learning and what’s really impacted fashion backstage is all the skill sets that come from the textured techniques and is now infilatrated across different ethnicities. This is a really important time. My role at Schwarkzopf is to really put the spotlight on this. And that it comes from a genuine place.”
Nuria Ferreira, Nick’s assistant and founder of @specialtouch.nuria continued… “We all have different textures of the hair. Within black hair there are different textures – Afro is not afro per se. We need to talk about hair not in terms in black or white. We have made change, but we are not ‘there yet’. What is beautiful now, is that we can walk around with hair as we want it – natural or relaxed, wearing hair pieces or extensions or not. When I get to a show or shoot, it’s no longer all Caucasian hair. It’s beautiful that we are being seen.”
Advice and advocacy
Widening the conversation, the panel [see below for all contributors] gave advice for young entrepreneurs, and expressed a tangible desire to share both experiences and advocate bold moves in asking for change. We need to put our money where our mouths are in fashion and beauty, said panellist Sharon Lloyd. She is an academic, beauty futurist and advocate for inclusivity and equality(@faceculuralist). Sharon told the room: “We need to finance, not just to say we support or want growth. We need to make it happen. Mentoring is not enough… get the money to be in the room. Demand investment.”
Sabirah Talks panel
Aicha Mckenzie, founder of AMCK Management, reiterated her realisation that academia isn’t teaching the ins and outs of running a business. We need more support in learning money management and margins. She said: “People need to know how to get a job… what the routes are. This is so important!”
Hostess for the Sabirah Talks, Deborah Latouche shared stories from her early career. She recalled presenting her work in Italy … to mixed reviews! The biggest lesson she took from this tough experience is this: As long as you’re convinced and proud and have worked hard that’s all that matters. There will be people who love and some who hate. Accept it.
An important point for business which is worth keeping in mind for all of us. You need to see yourself in beauty. If you don’t see yourself, you won’t spend. Asiya Duranni-Mcann recalled her time as head of advertising and licencing at Vivienne Westwood. She witnessed at first hand how the designer didn’t see colour when casting models or creating looks. Westwood was an example of inclusive behaviour. It raised a good point about the way we have become more diverse in fashion and hair.
Change is coming
Kim Howells is an award-winning stylist and creative director (previously at Hunger Magazine with Nick Irwin). She reminded us how just 10 years ago, runway shows were often featuring models who all looked alike – 20 white girls with high ponytails looking like clones of each other. Fast forward to now when we are more likely to see ‘cool people’ celebrated for their individuality. It was a bright point in a rather sobering evening.
What are the challenges we took away as the most urgent? The panel suggested that colourism and classism are challenges. You want diversity but not tokenism and for appearances not to be Eurocentric… you need diversity of community. Sharon Lloyd suggested our use of language is an issue. She says use of term dark or darker when describing sking tones are a problem. Deeper is a better choice, says Sharon, calling out use of terms ‘dark’ and ‘light’.
Use our voices was another call to action. Boycot brands that don’t reflect our values, be those political, colourism and racism. Social media can help give a voice. Support smaller independent businesses that can make a difference. Be consciously consuming’
“It was fantastic to have attended the inaugural SABIRAH Talks panel. I’d like to say a huge thank you to Deborah for organising such an insightful evening, which raised many thought-provoking comments about the challenges women of colour face within the fashion and beauty industry. It’s also such a privilege for Schwarzkopf Professional to be working with Deborah and to be endorsing and supporting SABIRAH’s values through our work with our Global Ambassador, Nick Irwin, backstage at London Fashion week.” Annamarie Freeman, Head of Marketing, Schwarzkopf Professional
For more information, follow:
#sabirahtalks
@sabirahofficial
Aside from addressing these challenges, the discussion created a space which was honest, open, and one which was a true celebration of women of colour. To learn more about the work of Deborah Latouche and SABIRAH, please visit www.sabirah.co.uk
Who’s Who
The members of the panel at the first ever Sabirah Talks were:
- Sharon Lloyd – @faceculturalistSenior academic, British Beauty Council DEI, and founding member of @_weareface – Fashion and the Arts Creating Equity.
- Nick Irwin – @nickirwinhairGlobal Ambassador for @schwarzkopfpro and Hair Editor for @hungermagazine
- Arooj Aftab – @its.aroojFashion Creative and Cultural Consultant
- Karen Cummings-Palmer – @karencummingspalmerLeading Health and Beauty Expert and Founder of @79luxeskincare
- Kim Howells – @kim_howellsAward-winning Fashion Stylist and Creative Director, previous Fashion Director of Hunger Magazine
- Nuria Ferreira – Assistant to Nick Irwin and founder of @specialtouch.nuria
- Aicha Mckenzie – @aichamckenzieFounder of AMCK Management – a ground-breaking agency that has since given rise to AMCK Dance, @amckmodels , and AMCK Fit
- Asiya Duranni-Mcann– Previous Head of Advertising & Licensing at Vivienne Westwood, Founder @AuntieagencyFounder @thefashionindustryforum & Owner/Curator @90fromthe90s
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